Friday, February 29, 2008

How Emira Became Ema

Since my potato, bread, and cookie intake has shot through the roof in the last month, I decided to join the power gym to which my host brother belongs. So, for the fifth time in two weeks -and much to the alarm of the trainer who presides over the single stuffy room that is the "training hall"and doesn't seem to like to see women exert themselves too much - I have run my 5k and then proceeded to stretch and (feebly) lift weights. 

The demographic among women who attend the power gym seems break down into two pretty stark categories: the bodybuilder types who are intimidating to behold and seriously jacked, and the rail thin pretty girls who seem to have come straight from the salon to their workout. These women look terrific, their hair is styled, their little outfits are cute, they like to get attention from males who are working out, and they seem to never break a sweat. 

Following my run and stretch this morning, a young women in the locker room told me that I was "умна" (clever?) for being able to run so long and so fast. We chatted for while, she introduced herself as "Ema." I finally confessed that I was foreign, and told her as best I could why I am in Simferopol. She then confessed that she is Tatar and her real name is "Emira." But, she explained, people here have a hard time with that name.

I didn't press it any more, but you begin to wonder how many things besides pronunciation "hard time" encompasses. This is the second time in two days that a young woman has divulged her Tatar heritage in my presence by admitting that her modified or adopted name is an attempt to blend in. 

Yesterday, Milara-odzha teasingly called out the young woman who came to read her electric meter. Looking at her squarely, she said, your name is really "Карина"? - I could swear you look like a Tatar. The girl admitted that her given name is actually "Elvira," but it's easier to get around with the other name. She read the meter, and then joined us for coffee and cookies.

---

I am boiling eggs and packing my bags for the 25-hour train ride to L'viv during which I plan to hone my basic knitting skills, practice Tatar silently, and finish the Norman Rush novel that I am engrossed in. Return journey will be through Kyiv with a stopover for a couple days, too. Very much looking forward to seeing long unseen friends and family in both places. Crossing my fingers that I don't have to share my train compartment with any thugs. 


Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Coffee in Bakhchisaray, with Blow Torch

I have lucked into the excellent company and expertise of two stunning and inspiring Peace Corp volunteers in the last week. Yesterday, my new Simferopol based friend Scott took me to meet Anna in Bakhchisaray, a magical townlet about an hour from Simferopol. Both Anna and Scott have been working with the Crimean Tatar community here for the last 2 years, so both have really interesting perspectives (and sometimes even answers, lo!) on the mysteries and questions that have been pestering me all around. Both have also been so generous about sharing their network of contacts with me, which almost makes it feel like I'm cheating somehow. (But really, I'm just a lucky ethnographer.)
 
The gentleman making coffee above is Ayder Asanov. He and his daughter 
Elmira are master artists who create gorgeous jewelry for sale at the Usta Handicraft Shop which Anna has set up during her tenure in Bakhchisaray. The Asanovs are a talented bunch -
Elmira's brother is also a well-known Crimean Tatar musician who worked on the Crimean Tatar karaoke DVD that I finally got to see today. 

Two days before, I visited the Ablaevs, another family of jewelery makers (to whom this necklace can be attributed). They live in Maryna, a rayon of Simferopol in which some of the mustard-yellow squatter's claims have been slowly built up into livable houses. The photo below shows the scene across the street from the Ablaevs. More on this soon.



This weekend, I scored an old Russian accordion 
from Milara-odzha's brother (it's on loan, really)
and just now figured out that I can accompany myself on banjo to a Tatar song
that I've learned to sing (John Comfort Fillmore, anyone?). Discoveries abound.






Thursday, February 21, 2008

Unbecoming, or, Just Words

There are some words I don’t use, and it’s not because I’m humorless. Some words make me uncomfortable. This has been a recurring intellectual problem for me, and I’ve had to confront it here in Ukraine since I arrived. The other morning, I was chatting in English with a Russian-speaking college student who speaks broken English rapidly and wanted to practice. Let’s call him Sasha. I told him that I had awoken that morning from a dream in which I was one of Barack Obama’s grade school confidantes, and that I had been walking the halls of the White House engaged in who-likes-who level discourse. (I guess all the CNN talk about Obamamania – is that the coinage? – has seeped through to the point that my subconscious thinks it is best girlfriends with this admittedly likeable politician. Anyway.) Sasha said that he had heard on the news that Obama won’t stand a chance in the general election because Americans “will not vote for a n****.” (It frightens me even to write that much, even if it’s in quotes.) I told Sasha that I heard a different statistic and then I told him not to use that word. The clip that CNN World Edition has been replaying over the last two days features Hillary pushing her “talking not doing” critique of Obama, and Obama responding with part of that speech that he borrowed in which the formula is: 1. Insert famous line (We hold these truths to be self-evident/I have a dream/Ich bin ein Berliner/life, liberty, property/fear itself/etc … 2. Crowd erupts in applause 3. Speaker, derisively: “Just words?” 4. Crowd continues to erupt. It’s a good and obvious rhetorical tactic (Thanks, Cicero!). The great irony, of course, is that taking any of those famous utterances out of their context only works because of the famous actions they accompanied. FDR or MLK or JFK were people facing real situations when they said those words. But then so is Obama - so good for him for using other people’s words to remind us that all of this is just overheated pre-real-situation talk. Just words? The man’s got a point. Words may be arbitrary signs and all that, but they’re also dense catalogs of meaning. Words are some of the most public and the most personal items we possess. The meaning of a word is layered with the history of that word’s currency in our own lives as much as its wrapped up in its social history: of literature, speech, or a genre like hip-hop. Every time I try out a new word I’m as conscious of it as if it’s a new wig I’ve just put on. (How does it look?) Every time I dredge up a ten-dollar word I’m sensitive to it. (Am I pretentious now?) Every time I hear Bush's mid-sentence hem-and-haw, hear the wheels in his brain turn, I think about the word that's gone missing. I’m aware of how other people use words, especially at weird times: a flashy word in a kindergarten class, academic jargon while ice-skating, an archaic term in a pop song, or a mundane word lodged in a sophisticated critique. (A professor who always referred to good writing as “nice” comes to mind.) I’m sensitive to words in context most of the time. I imagine it’s the same way for most of us who care about words and know how powerful they can be. So, back to my problem: I got flustered. Sasha blew my defensiveness off as an absurd PC-ism, an American tic. He said, “How come if they can say it to each other all the time I can’t use it. Jay-Z, Nelly, 50 Cent, Kholi-vud - they all use it.” I pointed out that it’s a specific context, that Obama would never refer to himself using the term, just as Hillary would never designate herself a “ho.” Eep. I pointed out that this has been a contentious issue even within the hip-hop world, if you remember that ban proposed by Russell Simmons a few years ago and the T-shirt debacle from last week. (CNN, my only friend…). Sasha didn’t care. I warned him against ever using the term because people will misunderstand him. He shrugged. This went on for a while. I resorted to berating him (not a debate tactic endorsed by Cicero, I think). My behavior grew to be не красиво, as people here like to say, which my instinct translates as “unbecoming,” but is probably literally closer to “not beautiful” (it’s tricky to find the exact right words). I felt blindly righteous on this point. And then, later in the day, I got to thinking about Ching Chong Song. Ching Chong Song is a band that I got hooked on a few months ago. (Susan’s playing with them now, which makes it even better.) They are surprising performers, authors of really interesting strange music, and nice people to boot. They are not Chinese. (Would it be different if they were?) Their songs have nothing to do with Asia. They are not people who hate other people. But they are passionate. They are not naïve. They did not set out to provoke anybody, I think, but they did. Their band name has been in the center of a controversy: they’ve been protested at Bryn Mawr College and at NYU and just this past weekend, had a gig cancelled because a half-Asian bandmember of another band on the bill felt uncomfortable. Susan told me that she wrote a letter to the guy in the other band to explain why she doesn’t have a problem playing with Ching Chong Song. I asked to see it, then I asked her if I could post part of it on my blog. She said yes: “The way I see it, yes, "Ching Chong" is a racial slur. It was created out of ignorance. It's a dumb term created and used by people who let their stupidity and fear have the better of them. That's how we originally experienced these words. But Ching Chong Song is not a racist band. They're simply not. I think the juxtaposition of the band name with the kind of band that Ching Chong Song is points out the silliness of the term and could even have an inoculating kind of effect on it. To me, this is empowering if anything. We can't erase the term "ching chong" from the American vocabulary. It's like trying to erase knowledge of unpleasant things like how to make weapons or historical events where people were mistreated. I, as an Asian American, don't see the need to obliterate any words at all, but perhaps change how we relate to them and hopefully change how we relate to each other. And (as cheesy as this sounds) I think one of the ways to change how we relate to each other as human beings is by creating rich and true music. And Ching Chong Song creates some of the most inventive and beautiful music I've heard.” Later, in a letter to me, Susan wrote, “What do we do with these words that were used to hurt people? Or that represent ignorant, hurtful thought? I think it's a sensitive case-by-case kind of thing. I don't think there's a fast rule to anything. But that's why I say, in the case of Ching Chong Song, it makes the ridiculousness of the words stand out because of the kind of band they are and the kind of music they make. If they were a KKK country band or a gangster rap group with an Asian fetish, would I feel different? I don't know... maybe. It would depend on the hairstyles. Ha.” And still later, “I've been thinking ever more about what if those words were used in other contexts, and the conclusion I came to was that when it comes to words, I don't care that much. I'm not so much offended by words as I am by actual racists. In the example of bands I used, I thought it wouldn't be offensive that a KKK country band was using the words Ching Chong, it would be offensive that a KKK country band was racist. Do you get what I mean? Words are just words, but what's offensive are racists - people who actually believe another race of people are lower than them.” What is our responsibility when it comes to words? Should we police others, or only when their words are motivated out of hatred or ignorance? Where’s the line between using words and believing in all the meaning that they can encompass? Am I a hypocrite for getting so upset over Sasha’s word preference while listening to music made by this band? A friend told me, when I asked her about Ching Chong Song, that white people never ever under any circumstances get to use any ethnic slurs. They just don’t, because they’re white, and that means power and privilege and all the accompanying accoutrements. Whiteness is hegemonic, there’s no way around that. Ching Chong Song knew the slur they were invoking, they knew that paper/rock/scissors is a game played in Germany with the same name, and they knew that they liked the way the name sounded. Is it defensible? I don't know. Listen to their music. I’ve been conducting a poll here in Simferopol. I ask everyone I can about the little mustard-yellow squatter’s houses that are strewn across the landscape outside of Simferopol, outside of Bakhchyserai, and other Crimean towns to see how they explain them. (The little houses represent plots that Tatars have claimed – and now other groups have glommed on to the plan – in an attempt to get adequate land on which to build houses in the future.) About three or four responses have referred to the property as being seized by “Tatar mafia,” and, in one case, “Ukrainian-Tatar mafia.” These never come as explanations from Tatars. I mentioned this yesterday at lunch with 4 women from the Crimean Tatar Literature department at the University. One of them said, “Yes, I’m the mafia. I staked a claim.” She didn’t laugh. I said, “But doesn’t mafia imply power and violence?” She said, “It depends on your perspective.” Everyone at the table seemed to smile knowingly. I probably looked confused, because explanations followed: the Tatars are a minority group whose position is widely misunderstood by a majority people who have no real reason to try and empathize. In the sense that they’ve tried to organize and have been willing to take some risks (albeit non-violent ones) in asserting themselves as repatriates, sure, they’re a mafia. Nobody got too touchy about the word itself, the label of “mafia.” The term, with it’s не красиви connotations, became a stand-in for Crimean Tatar solidarity at the lunch table. The word itself unbecame the word as it's defined in the dictionary. It unbecame itself in our conversation, as we tried to understand the perspective of other people's (inappropriate) use of the term. Maybe there's something to that: unbecoming. I present you with the tip of the iceberg. --- There seem to be lots of fireworks going on outside in my neighborhood right now. I wonder if it’s because the sun finally came out of hiding today.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Vacationland, why hast thou forsaken me?

It snowed a lot more today. Those of you who thought I was clever for choosing Crimea for its beaches now know how far into the future I can see. I can't remember the last time it was this cold in New York.

The trudge home over the train tracks from the overcrowded marshrutka almost made it worth it, though. Made me feel like I was in a Tolstoy novel, somehow. A marginal character, perhaps.




Observation of the day: children don't make snowmen here, they make very large snowballs.

Monday, February 18, 2008

I decline, you decline, he/she/it declines

I had a semi-mortifying experience today when I attended Milara-odzha's class for 1st years in the Crimean Tatar and Turkish Language and Literature department. Lots of Tatar flew over my head - these are what we would call "heritage" speakers at Columbia - and then before I knew it, I was standing in front of the class, chalk in hand, asked to decline the noun "rale" (рале) which means "desk." There's that "Knowledge is Power" Norman Rockwell painting that comes to mind. Except maybe with knobbier knees in my case. And the chalkboard was bright blue. Anyway, declining nouns is not my forté. Nor is conjugating verbs, turns out.
Well, monkey has a new trick. Milara-odzha and I have begun to advertise my ability to sing a traditional Crimean Tatar song whenever my inability to speak Tatar inhibits the possibility of a good and easy time for all. The advertisement inevitably invites a request to hear the song, and then, after 30 seconds of song, everyone says "Mashallah!"

Yesterday, I had the good fortune to be included on my new friend Natasha's family excursion to the chic new ice rink in Sevastopol. Afterwards, we went bowling, in the gorgeous bowling alley in the same mall where ice skating is located. Maybe you know that I love bowling. Well, it was really fun, though I didn't play very well. 
There's been a lot of little doses of snow over the last week. Pipes are bursting, and the train tracks that I cross are looking more picturesque than usual.  


































Another development: the Baby Pool CD is now available on CD Baby

Saturday, February 16, 2008

How to Make Plov

I arrived to Milara-odzha's house this morning and she was making plov. And so began our first cooking lesson in Russian and Tatar. Here's what you need to make what she calls "real Uzbek plov" - in which proportions are roughly 1 kg - 1 kg of most ingredients. Easy peasy.

250-300 grams sunflower or olive oil
1 kg meat of any kind
1 kg carrots
1/2-1 kg onions
(250 grams of peas, optional)
1 kg white rice
boiling and cold water, which you'll eyeball on a few occasions
"plov spices" - with barbaris (barberry), cumin, coriander, and peppercorns
salt to taste

(I did ask whether it was possible to make vegetarian plov. Her first response was "If there's no meat in it it's not plov." Then, she seemed to reconsider, and added that her husband has made varieties with apples or peppers or pretty much anything when there's no meat around, which get pretty close to plov.)

1. So, in a pot like the one pictured below, fry the onions and the meat in oil until brown. Then add carrots, and if you have them, peas. Stir it up.
2. Once it's all good and brown, add boiling water to cover the mixture. Add plov spices and salt by instinct. While you let that boil for a minute, give your rice a good washing in cold water to prevent it from getting soggy later on. Put the rice in a bowl, and pour boiling water to cover it. Let it sit like that for a few minutes.
3. Then, add the rice to plov mixture.
4. Throw in 1-2 heads worth of whole garlic cloves. (Also, you can throw in an entire garlic head at this stage and use it later as a garnish. Just cut the tough part off the bottom.) Cover the rice and plov mixture with "two fingers worth" of water. 
5. Stir it well, and then cover it. Let it cook on high while you have coffee.























6. Enjoy your coffee. 





















7. Uncover the plov and check it out. The rice should be mostly cooked but not completely done. Pile it up "like a mountain" and then give it some air to breathe, as pictured below. Set the heat on low. Cover it again.



















8. Get your pickled vegetables ready.


















9. Uncover the mixture, fish out the meat and make sure it is cut into small enough bits. 















10. There you go, now you have plov. Unlike borscht, which is always better on the second day, plov is best enjoyed fresh, so eat up. No, really, have some. Oh, you like it? Have some more. And some more after that.
 


Thursday, February 14, 2008

Ой Боже!

You might know how the old song goes:

Oy Bozhe, what a beautiful world
How hard it is to leave it behind
They make vodka there, they make wine,
and then they offer you beer as a chaser.


In my case, it was vodka-cognac-beer-cognac-vodka. A palindrome of alcoholic beverages.
And this started before noon.
(Although, contrary to the stereotype I'm invoking, the truth is that there's been little imbibing in Simferopol. My host family aren't really drinkers - this was an exception - and no one else seems to be either.)









Today was my host mother/sister's mother's (my host grandmother's?) birthday, and I was invited to join in the celebration when I first arrived almost 2 week
s ago. So, we travelled by glamorous elektrichka to Джанкой (Dzhankoy) a town on the northern end of Crimea, to visit baba's house. 














The day was great fun, though I took a serious nap following our meal. Baba presented me with a Tajik caftan. The caftan had originally been given to her by her Tatar friend and neighbor Ana, who was kind enough to show us the footage from her niece's wedding last summer - this was part of the reason I was encouraged to come. (Ana also prepared some very delicious plov, and now I'm charged with preparing it according to her recipe for International Women's Day when Baba comes to visit Simferopol.) Baba wanted to demonstrate how the caftan looked before presenting it, which is part of what is happening in the photo below. What was also happening was that Baba was dancing to the music emanating from Russian MTV or whatever Boris was watching in the other room.

And, to satisfy those of you who have been asking, here's a photo of me with my younger host brother Pasha. (That's still what I look like, thanks for reading my blog.) Pasha and I have the most amazing avant-garde conversations in English. Here's a loose transcript of the conversation we had right before this photo was taken:

Pasha: "Don't." (time elapses, he's looking at me expectantly)
Maria: "You?...What?" 
P: "eh, hotel" 
M: "wait -- "  
P: (interrupting, very quickly) "- it was say present gift. Say, saying" 
M: "what was?" 
P: "yesterday... eh... tomorrow." 
M: "hotel?" 
and so on....
He's going to be fluent by the time I leave. 

Happy Day of Lovers, as they say here. I wrote a love song for a bureaucrat to celebrate. 

And I'll leave you with that, my second self-promotional stunt in this entry.