Friday, January 16, 2009

Penguins and Hutsuls



At the anti-kryzova knaypa (anti-crisis club) in L’viv, there’s a sign on the wall that reads “Crises are not Frightening to Penguins and Hutsuls.” 



They have a point. Every time I've shared this phrase in Verkhovyna, people nod their heads in agreement. 



Since most every local heats the home with firewood and survives the winter on stores of corn meal, summer’s pickled vegetables, milk and cheese from the family cow or goat, the energy crisis seems distant. If it gets really cold, there are local banyas or homebrewed fire water usually within reach. 

The gas crisis doesn’t pose the same threat here that it does to the cities, and people take pride in that, but the opportunity to make cracks about the crisis is not wasted. SMS New Year “vinchuvannia” that reference the gas crisis have opened a whole new frontier of Ukrainian text message poetry. 

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

The Old New Year



Happy Old New Year! We traveled to the villages of Kosmach and Sheshory to take part in the Old Calendar (Julian) New Year celebrations on January 13th. Malanka!


Bands of masqueraders and musicians stopped our two-car caravan every few feet to sing us carols and extort small sums of money. More than once, we were guided out of the cars and pulled along by a gang to a nearby village house for more dancing, eating, and drinking.


There were the usual un-PC malanka characters and ethnic caricatures - Devils, Gypsies, Dead Brides, Jews, Old Men, Baba Yagas, Bears, Nazis, Brezhnev.... 


Putin made more than one appearance this year. Yulia, to my surprise, not one.

Photos by Oksana Susyak, here with gorilla bride and Brezhnev.

Malanka, Part 2

Some more Malanka images from Kosmach and Sheshory. Photos by Oksana Susyak.